Diminishing these is not an overnight process. It took time to make them and it will take time to remove them. You have to continually turn over cells until you reach down into the dermal layer with the pigment discoloration. The simplest prevention is wearing protective clothing, sunscreen, and sunglasses, and avoiding sun exposure during midday, when UV rays are the most intense. Tanning lamps or beds can cause the same changes. Lotions that contain musk or bergamot can encourage spot formation upon exposure to UV radiation so apply to areas of the body that will not be exposed to the sun.

Pigments are located at the base of the epidermis so treatments need to penetrate through this layer. Creams and gels formulated to fade age spots do so by exfoliation, bleaching, or inhibition of the enzyme tyrosinase. Ingredients such as glycolic acid, Vitamins C and E, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, or kojic acid, are especially helpful. Dermabrasion type scrubs are helpful for surface exfoliation. More intense procedures include laser therapy, freezing cryotherapy, or chemical peels. Caution regarding these procedures should be exercised as aside from being expensive, some side effects may include permanent scarring or discoloration.

Facial skin resurfacing can be traced to ancient Egyptian times and the application of abrasive masks of alabaster particles. The goal has always been to peel, exfoliate, and rejuvenate the skin, producing a smooth surface.  Modern dermabrasion first developed in the early 1950’s as a skin resurfacing technique to treat facial scarring from acne, chicken pox, accidents, or disease.  Dermabrasion is currently most popular as a cosmetic procedure to treat deep facial lines and wrinkles, severe sun damage, acne scarring, and discoloration due to age spots and generalized hyperpigmentation.  Physical and chemical treatments can be intense and leave the skin raw. 

Microdermabrasion is a gentler technology that offers the advantages of low risk and rapid recovery compared with other resurfacing modalities such as intense dermabrasion, chemical peels, or laser resurfacing.  Microdermabrasion is well suited for people with busy lifestyles as the only downtime is that of the time of treatment itself.  Another advantage is that effective results can be achieved at home using quality scruffing products. Consistent use of products with scruffing particles brightens the complexion, evens out skin tones, and produces smoother, clearer skin. 

Microdermabrasion is no longer confined to the face and whole body exfoliation is very popular.  Scruffing cloths, brushes, and other rough materials work gently to roughly on the body and when used consistently, provide excellent results using regular soap. In Various substances have also been used over the millennia including acids, poultices of minerals and plants, and direct irritants such as fire and sandpaper-like materials.  Currently, the most popular abrasives include fruit seeds, fibers, and sugars (e.g. raspberry, turbinado sugar), grain, nut or seed powders (e.g. almond, oatmeal, walnuts), or oil and wax beads (e.g. jojoba).  Jojoba beads are considered the exfoliant of choice in facial products as they are moisturizing and provide gentle exfoliation without leaving micro-lacerations on delicate skin.  Professionals use fine grit aluminum oxide crystals to enhance the exfoliation process.

Origin: USA
Fuller’s Earth has an interesting history. It’s name originated in England, where in ancient times “fullers” would knead a mixture of earth clay and water into raw wool to clean it, and absorb dirt and lanolin.. The process was known as fulling, the practitioners were “fullers,” and the clay or earth became known as fuller's earth.

Fuller’s earth has a multitude of practical uses far beyond the beauty realm. It was sold in pharmacies until recently for compressing pills and it is sometimes used by mechanics to absorb grease and oil. Military forces use fuller’s earth to clean soldiers who are contaminated with chemical weapons. Hollywood uses large amounts of for special effects when simulating explosions as fine-grained fuller's earth makes a much larger plume than ordinary dirt, suggesting a larger heavy rainfall.

Do not be put off by all of this talk of mechanics and explosions. Cosmetic grade fuller’s earth is marvelous for skin. It outperforms any material to help clean pores. It is a naturally occurring sedimentary clay composed mainly of silica, alumina, iron oxides, lime, magnesium, and water. It has the incredible ability to remove oils and impurities from the skin and produces a lightening and brightening effect on the outer epidermal layer. (Products that advertise themselves as “skin bleaching” will usually contain fuller’s earth.) It is a very effective ingredient in facial cleansers and masks and is highly recommended for skin that is marked by discoloration, blemishes, or oiliness.

Ginseng is a small, perennial plant that grows in the damp woodlands of Manchuria but is primarily cultivated in Korea. Ginseng is also cultivated in the United States (Panax quinquefolius) and Canada and is particularly prized in Chinese societies. Traditional Chinese medicine believe that American ginseng promotes yin (cold) energy, clears away excess yang (warm) energy and thus calms the body. The aromatic root can grow as long as two feet in length.

The Chinese have steadfastly maintained that ginseng has great influence in curing a variety of ills for over five thousand years, a testament of time that continues to this day. Ginseng has been found to act as a true physiological proliferation which makes it a valuable additive to tonics and creams to revitalize stressed, aging, and wrinkled skin.

• A 32% reduction in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and crow’s feet after 1 month of application of cream containing Idebenone, increasing to a 57% reduction in 3 months.
• A 34% improvement in the overall appearance of the skin after 1 month, increasing to 45% in 3 months.
• A 33% reduction in the appearance of wrinkle depth after 1 month, increasing to 55% reduction in 3 months.

The name “Oil of Olay” is derived from the word lanolin, a key ingredient in the initial product developed by Graham Wulff.

The following contains excerpts from the FDA website (www.fda.gov).
Parabens are the most widely used preservatives in cosmetic products and include methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and benzylparaben. Various combinations are used in products to protect against a wide range of microorganisms. Mixtures of the different parabens allows for lower levels in products while increasing activity. Besides cosmetics, parabens are used in foods and drugs.

The FDA believes that there is no reason for consumers to be concerned about the presence of parabens in cosmetics at this time. Despite that, there is widespread concern among consumers over the use of parabens because of studies that detected parabens in breast tumors (J of Applied Toxicology, 2004). The study discussed the weak estrogen-like properties of parabens and the influence of estrogen on breast cancer. The weakness in the study is that it did not provide a causal relationship between breast cancer and parabens and it did not measure parabens levels in normal tissue. The FDA issued their safe use opinion taking these weaknesses into account as well as studies that show that parabens has much less estrogenic activity than the body’s naturally occurring estrogen.

ABBEY NOTE: Despite the approval of the FDA for paraben usage in cosmetics, we have made a commitment to eliminating parabens from all of our treatment products to alleviate concern that many have expressed over this preservative. Products have been reformulated to accommodate alternative preservatives. An occasional product that is not formulated in-house may contain parabens, but this will always be noted. We also list all of our ingredients on every product page so you can quickly assess this information.

Pore size is genetically determined. One feat a toner, or any product, cannot perform, is to permanently make large pores smaller. What daily use of good products can do is to reduce the appearance of large pores, and regular use of a masque provides the most effective treatment.

"The term 'large pores' is truly subjective. Get anyone in front of a good mirror and a bright overhead light, and nine times out of ten he or she will recoil at the size of his or her pores.

"Patients always ask me if there is any way to shrink, decrease or just get rid of facial pores. We all want that baby skin look - smooth as porcelain without a pore in sight. The problem is, adults have bigger pores than babies, no matter what they do. At puberty, pores increase in size as sex hormones stimulate oil production and sebaceous glands develop. Pores also grow in size, or at least become more noticeable, when they hold oil and accumulate dead skin cells. Pulling, squeezing and tugging the skin also can increase pore size.

"Nothing will really change your pore size, which is often genetically determined. Large pores are also the result of anatomic variation. For example, the central face tends to have large pores while the sides of the face have smaller ones.

"Gentle exfoliation and the use of alpha hydroxy or salicylic acid cleansers and lotions can reduce the appearance of large pores. Retin-A can also help, especially if you have blackheads that make your pores look bigger. Use products that work gently over time for the best results."

From Barney J. Kenet, M.D.'s How to Wash Your Face (Simon and Schuster, 1999).

Origin: Morocco
Rhassoul clay has been used for over 1400 years as a soap, shampoo, and skin conditioner. Mined deep beneath the Atlas Mountains in Eastern Morocco it comes from the earth as a chunky, rock like substance but becomes smooth and silken once refined and micronized. The finest spas around the globe value it for its therapeutic benefits.

Rhassoul is a reddish-brown clay that has extraordinary power of absorption, increased ability to swell with the addition of water, and higher levels of silica, magnesium, and calcium than other clays, which makes it one of the most effective clays for deep cleansing, detoxification, and general skin conditioning. It is excellent when used as a cleanser or in masks as it washes like soap and leaves a unique, sweet scent on the skin. Rhassoul is an excellent exfoliant and removes dead skin layers, resulting in a general smoothing of the surface skin in addition to its oil removal characteristics.

Clinical studies conducted by two American research laboratories (International Research Services, Inc. www.irsi.org and Structure Probe, Inc. www.2spi.com) evaluated Rhassoul used in a clay mask on skin condition. After a single use the results found that it

Reduces dryness (79%).
Reduces flakiness (41%).
Improves skin clarity (68%).
Improves skin elasticity / firmness (24%).
Improves skin texture (106%).
Removes surface oil and oil from inside and around clogged pores.

Rosacea is a skin disorder known for patchy flushing (redness) and inflammation, particularly on the cheeks, nose, forehead, and around the mouth. Rosacea may also include small, red, solid bumps (papules) and pustules on the skin. An overview of the characteristics of rosacea include:

• Rosacea is a common chronic skin disorder, affecting 30-50% of the population.
• Causes are unknown. Enzymatic or bacterial action are most probable cause.
• Rosacea begins innocently as a blush of the face.
• The rosacea region is usually the central third of the face including the nose, but could also include chin, chest, neck, ears, and back.
• Rosacea may be mistaken for eczema, blushing, rosy cheeks, sunburn or, usually, acne.
• Rosacea causes tiny pimples and red lines to appear on the skin.
• Rosacea untreated can cause a bulbous red nose (like W.C. Fields).
• Three times more women than men are affected.
• Rosacea flushing can be triggered by exposure to temperature extremes, cold wind, strenuous exercise, heat from sunlight, sunburn, stress, anxiety, moving between warm and cold environments (e.g.between heated shops/offices and the outdoors during the winter). Food triggers include alcohol, caffeine, spicy foods, andfruits containing high levels of antioxidants, such as red grapes.

There is no cure for rosacea, but prompt recognition and proper treatment permit people with rosacea to enjoy life. Use mild products and avoid damaging your skin further with harsh washing and irritating topical treatments. Consulting a physician may be helpful as prescription antibiotics have proved useful for many. Rosacea can cause depression in some, but the condition can be controlled. The use of a green tinted concealer or powder can camouflage some of the intense redness during a flare-up.

Applying a toner to freshly cleaned skin is an important step in face care. The toner acts to clear the skin of any residual cleanser, cellular debris, perspiration, or excess oil, refines and tightens pores opened during the cleansing process, helps to invigorate the skin and increase circulation, and it will soften and emulsify deposits and blackheads in the follicles. Because the toner is left on the skin, the addition of herbal extracts, essential oils, anti-inflammatory skin actives and antioxidants to the solution greatly increases its healing value in the development of healthy skin.

Currently, the terms toner and astringent are often used interchangeably. Both refer to a solution that cleans skin and pores and causes a constriction of pores with the purpose of improving surface texture. In general, astringents usually are formulated with alcohol and are more drying to skin. Water, aloe, or witch hazel based toners are less drying and more moisturizing. Alcohol based toners should be used with caution because while they are often used for oily skin due to their drying effect, their use can have the opposite effect. The use of an alcohol-based astringent can dry the skin so much that it actually stimulates an increase in oil production. Hydrating herbal toners are preferred as they can be used as needed without over-drying the skin. The goal is a toner that works with the skin’s natural processes, encouraging the correct balance.